A few years ago, I saw a stunning photo of a temple entrance nestled at the foot of a mountain, adorned with trees ablaze in the vibrant hues of autumn. I knew then that I had to find this place and capture its beauty on canvas. So last week, as Korea began to transform into a kaleidoscope of jewel-toned foliage, I embarked on a journey to South Jeolla Province with a single-minded purpose.
That's how I found myself setting up my plein air oil painting kit on the trail leading to the entrance of Baekyangsa Buddhist Temple on a November morning.
Having never been there before, I was a bit apprehensive about the potential hike. This could have been challenging while carrying my painting equipment, but fortunately, we arrived early enough to park near the temple and only had a short walk up the trail.
As a popular autumn destination in Korea, Baekyangsa was bustling with visitors, even on a weekday. Dozens of people, including a group of enthusiastic high school students, passed by as I painted. Their encouraging shouts of "very good" and "perfect" spurred me on. This location is undoubtedly one of the busiest for plein air painting, and definitely not for the faint-hearted. I faced a barrage of questions about my nationality, residency, and more, but I persevered with my painting.
To begin, I laid out my supplies and used Lori Putnam's beloved "Brown Pink" from Gamblin. This versatile color, generously gifted to me when I attended one of her workshops, has become my go-to for underpainting during plein air sessions. I sketched out the composition and then added depth with the same Brown Pink.
Once I was satisfied with the composition and values, I introduced color to the areas around the structure. I gradually worked my way up the canvas, adding color and shaping the foliage on the mountain. I then returned to the structure, making adjustments and adding cool tones to the roof. I also applied this same mixture to a few shadows around the building to unify the piece.
Around noon, I felt that the painting was sufficiently complete and took a lunch break. In my opinion, Korean mountainsides offer some of the best dining experiences, with a variety of delicious options for hikers and painters alike. We opted for "mountain greens bibimpap" and a bottle of local makgeolli, toasting to a morning well-spent at the beautiful Baekyangsa.